The irony is that I managed to go with the support of the Korean Tourism Organisation (KTO) that joined me with a German group of travel agents in a propmotion to discover the Korean tourism potential for its German clients. I recall one mentioning that although he enjoyed the trip, it would not become part of a German travel tour as the unreliable political situation and resulting Kaesong tour cancellations (sic!) could complicate the travel agents' job.
So we were thrown on one of the five busses together with all the other visitors for the day, mostly South Koreans, but also Japanese. When we arrived at the last South Korean border checkpoint we received our provisional one-day passport and an information sheet in exchange for our mobile phones, books,
newspapers, maps...
Among others it recommends hiking boots and general outdoor sports wear! This is what most looked like, all in forest-green and orange-brown chequered shirts and gore-tex. Fortunately I came totally unprepared and did not read that dress code before, especially later when seeing the North Korean guides who all wear dark suits accentuated with party badge and tie or traditional hanbok costomes and done-up hair for the ladies. Unfortunately though, I also only came with South Korean Won. Yes, in Kaesong, North Korea, the only currency accepted are US DOLLARS! No other option than quickly exchanging at the Shinhan Bank boot with an horrendous exchange fee!!!
The horror did not end here. For people like me who swore to never ever go on a group holiday again will know what I mean... standing in queues, with the unavoidable queue jumpers-think Korean ajumas, airport like controls of bags, people taking pictures everywhere blocking ways and views, and worst, the set timetables that somehow never quite give you the time and space to see what you would enjoy just that bit longer, or shorter..! But this is a special trip under special conditions and with this perspective in mind it is all part of the fun!!
And really, waiting in queues has never been better than by listening to the repetitively played North Korean vocal songs like uri-neun hana (we are one)!
하나 우리는 하나 태양조선 우리는 하나 (- MP3 - 03'04" / 2,880KB)
1.하나 민족도 하나 하나 피줄도 하나
하나 이 땅도 하나 둘이 되면 못살 하나
긴긴 세월 눈물로 아픈 상처 씻으며
통일의 환희가 파도쳐 설레이네
- 하나 우리는 하나 태양조선 우리는 하나
2. 하나 언어도 하나 하나 문화도 하나
하나 력사도 하나 둘이 되면 못살 하나
백두에서 한나까지 분단장벽 허물며
통일의 열풍이 강산에 차넘치네
하나 우리는 하나 태양조선 우리는 하나
3. - 하나 소원은 하나 하나 애국은 하나
하나 뭉치면 하나 둘 합치면 더 큰 하나
찬란한 태양이 삼천리를 비치여
통일의 아침이 누리에 밝아 오네
하나 우리는 하나 - 태양조선 우리는 하나
하나 하나 - 태양조선 우리는 하나
And soon we were brought to eat some lunch (13 -lucky- dishes!) in a restaurant in the Kaesong folk alley. Digesting the delicious, if comparativly greasy food, we strolled along the little waterway flanked with trees. Among their fruits there could also be found some
awkwardness... disfigured fruit!
Though, before embarking the bus again, something else was on menu. If not overlooked, one could visit a small bookstore that sold everything from paintings, to videos and books to DPRK batches. I found a little book on Kaesong legends that I bought despite the previous (South Korean) calls not to buy any books from North Korea threatening to confiscate them upon entry to the ROK. Promptly one of the orange-vested South Korean tour operators asked me with a teachery look if I bought a book (someone must have told me off..) and that she wants to check on it. With excuses that it is on the bus and that I could show it later the case was off the table and not spoken about no more. I have to admit I felt quite good in my "unlawfulness"..
Yet the most enjoyable bizzareness was a big, little mistake in my one-day passport and tourist ID. In a conversation with a North Korean tour guide, and being flattered about my great choson-mal (korean) skills, he grapped my ID when asking about what I do. His reading was quicker than my "great choson-mal skills" allowed to give an answer and he was all in awe! It says that I am a Professor at UCL! Nonetheless my correction of the mistake, the impression lasted -and I so much wished it to be true.... In Kaesong miracles can happen.
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